What's the deference betweens theese DSLR camera lences?

I'm planing to buy nikon D5300 in next month. It comes with two different lences, I like to know what will be best for me. (I don't know much more about DSLR cameras)

The lences are,
01). 18-55mm Lens
02). 18-140mm Lens

Mostly I need theese things properly.

01). Capture things moving 100Kmph+
02). Capture things at night. (Photos must be clear if i capture photo at night, using only flasher)
03). Focusing (I need to focus ONLY tha target and defocus the background)
04). Zooming (If I captured a image using maximum Zoom, the image must be clear)

The 18-140mm gives a little more reach.

01) Neither will allow you to keep far enough from the action to stay safe.
02) Neither is fast enough to cope with this, you need experience and a strong tripod. You'll also be lucky if you can see what you're trying to shoot through the viewfinder.
03) You need to learn to control depth-of-field - the 18-140mm may help marginally, but is it worth the price premium? I'd say not, you'd be better off using the saving to start paying for a 55-200mm.
04) If you take a bad picture, it's down to you, not the camera. This is meaningless, since the lens will do what you tell it to.

The Pentax K-50 is a better camera at a lower price, and its viewfinder gives a marginal improvement in night shooting.

The differences between these two lenses is the focal length. The 18-140mm lens will allow you to zoom in a lot closer to whatever it is that you're photographing, at the sacrifice of having to use a tripod, or something stable to hold the camera when you are at the furthest end of the zoom range. Keep in mind that at 140mm on the longer zoom lens, you aren't getting "a little more reach" as Andrew stated, you're getting A LOT more zoom than at 55mm. A simpleton can do the math and figure out that 140 is significantly greater than 55.

01) At 140mm on a 1.5x crop sensor camera like the D5300, you will have a equivalent focal length of 210mm. This is plenty far, but at the 140mm end of this lenses focal length, you will basically be restricted to photographing static or slow moving objects in sunlight.
02) Both of these lenses are "too slow" or have too tight of a maximum aperture for photographing subjects moving in excess of 100k/h.
03) You will get compression at the long end of your zoom lens, but if the lens comes with the camera, may as well use it when you can.

I'm not going to shill and recommend you a different camera, but you will soon learn the limitations of the provided gear.

Here are some answers to your question.

01). Capture things moving 100Kmph+
* It is the shutter speed of the camera that determines if you can capture subjects at those speeds, that and the angle you are to the high speed subject, NOT the lens. I use an 18-200 mm and 24-70 mm when shooting such high speed subjects.
02). Capture things at night. (Photos must be clear if i capture photo at night, using only flasher)
* if you use a tripod, just about any lens will do the job. Using an electronic flash (what you call a "flasher") has its drawbacks since only the portion of the frame that is in focus will be exposed properly. Things closer will be overexposed and further away will be underexposed.
03). Focusing (I need to focus ONLY tha target and defocus the background)
* Using shallow depth of field (or selective depth of field will require a few things. 1) a lens with a large aperture, 2) a medium telephoto lens, 3) placing your subject close to the lens and 4) making sure that the background is far behind the subject. Using any three of these techniques will provide an out of focus background.
04). Zooming (If I captured a image using maximum Zoom, the image must be clear)
* Whether using a telephoto zoom at its maximum focal length or really ANY telephoto lens, clear images will depend upon your skills using a camera, NOT the lens itself. Long lenses need to be shot using shutter speeds of over 1/500th second or shorter, at least until you have honed your skills using such a lens/camera combination.

NOTE: Your need for "clear" images shows you need to understand that what you want is only possible if you learn how to use your camera. Clear can mean in-focus, sharp images showing NO blur caused by camera movement. It can also mean transparent, which I'm sure is not what you nean