Does a film camera body matter?

I'm looking into purchasing a Nikon film camera to go with my Nikon DSLR. I'm planning on purchasing a 35mm. I'm wondering if the body matters or if it is only the glass and film that matter. - I'm perfectly fine with a fully manual body.

With old film cameras, a problem is the light seals. Most 60's,70's and 80's models have acrylic foam seals. This disintegrates into a sticky mess over the years and needs replacing. Look for 'replacing light seals in (your camera name)' and you will get all the help you need. Without this you are almost certain to get light in and messing up the photos.
Cameras that use PX625 mercury batteries can be a pain as you can't get the cells any more. Alternatives are available but have a short life and cost $7-$10 each.

As far as image quality (sharpness and distortion) with film, the camera has zero affect on image quality. This is because when you take a picture with a SLR the mirror move up, the shutter opens and there's nothing but air between the rear element of the lens and the surface of the film. The body is just a box to hold the film flat.
With that said, the body will allow you take more photos in a larger variety of situations consistently. So an entry-level SLR may not have a fast AF and/or a slow film advance system producing only 1 frame per second. An intermediate to pro-level camera will have a faster focusing system and will shoot between 4-10 fps. The entry level SLRs may not allow you to switch between continuous AF and single-shot mode, relying solely on which "mode" you put the camera. The early Rebels were like this - you only got continuous AF in sports mode.
The higher end models will show up to 100% of the image in viewfinder, lower end ones only show 95-98% so might not see the telephone pole at the edge of the frame. The viewfinders are also removable allowing the user to use brighter screen with grids to aid with framing.
Higher end models will have a faster flash sync speed of up to 1/250th instead of only 1/60th with entry cameras which is a big deal when shooting with flash outside.
Nikon AF bodies were great cameras, but they did have a few duds that should be avoided like Ebola. The N4004 or N4004S was Nikon's worst AF SLR of all time. Their F3 HP is one of the greatest MF bodies. In AF SLRs these area great cameras: N90, N8008, N6006, F100, F4, F5. Then 'N' bodies were the entry level to advanced user bodies. Nikon 'F' bodies were their higher end, pro-level bodies.

If you are perfectly fine shooting fully manual, then you just want the body to be light tight.

That said, there are some creature comforts that you may care about. Like a LCD on top, sensible batteries, buttons where you would expect them to be. My old Nikon film body doesn't like my modern flashes so that's another thing to consider.

The body matters too. The mirror and pentaprism must give you a good view of your subject. The mirror must get out of the way in a quick manner. The film handling must be sure and quick, film jams are no fun. So, yes, the body matters also.

The lenses are not all interchangeable. Be careful that you don't end up with a film back that won't take your lenses.

Yes it does.
questions you may wish to consider
Can I still get batteries? Is that battery truly compatible or is it just best availsble that causes meter inaccuracies?
Does it have the functionality I want eg full manual control, multiple exposure, compatible with my existing accessories.

Don't buy it its outdated inface no company manifacture film rolls any more.

Yes.

That fully manual mechanical film camera must be working perfectly. If you're buying secondhand, check thoroughly before paying. If you can afford any of these, better.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/...4129206440

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Digital cameras which make use of PX625 mercury electric batteries could be a discomfort while you can't obtain the tissue anymore. Options can be found however possess a brief existence as well as price $7-$10 every.