Vintage lenses on a modern Nikon?
I own a Nikon D3300 and have been experimenting with using older lenses. I have noticed that the camera responds differently to the lighting when using these older manual lenses. The biggest factor so far appears to be the ISO, by increasing it I have been able to get better exposures. I'm curious as to why this would be the case compared to when I use the kit lense.
Added (1). Thank you all for the input! I could have been clearer in my question, with the vintage lenses the camera seemed to be treating the light different. For example using the kit lens and my vintage lens in the exact same lighting conditions, the vintage lens was producing images that were more underexposed. Thank you Frank for explaining why this would be happening.
Explain "better exposures". More accurate? Lighter? Darker? More contrast?
Do you know the difference between "Open Aperture" and "Stopped Down" metering when using automatic diaphram and manual camera lenses? Have you read any books on camera use and metering for correct exposures?
If I understand your question correctly, you're saying that at a specific f/stop, shutter speed and ISO you will get a good exposure with your kit lens. Then, just by switching to a vintage lens, your exposures are now underexposed.
This should not happen if your D3300 is set to manual exposure mode. If you're not in manual, but instead in aperture or shutter priority, then it's very possible for this to happen. Why? Well, consider this: say that the two lenses have different angles of view. If with one lens you can see a window with bright sunlight coming through, and the other you can't, then the shot with the window in it will be underexposed because the camera is being fooled by the additional amount of light detected in the scene.
If you're in manual and the exposure changes just because of a different lens, then there's something wrong with the lens.
The older Nikkor "non CPU" lenses have to be used in manual mode and can't meter with your D3300. The correct use of a light meter will give you proper exposures at whichever ISO you select. If you're shooting jpg only and not using a raw editor, you probably don't realize that your highlights are most likely clipped by bumping up the ISO to get "better exposures."
Using the older non-cpu lenses, they need to be used in manual mode for exposure and focus. This means you need to understand the relationship between ISO, shutter speed, and aperture (the exposure triangle). If you know these relationships you will be able to answer your question. Many web sites cover the basics on the exposure triangle.
Use manual control. Select an ISO and stick to it. Then use the aperture control on the lens and the shutter speed on the camera to control exposure. I had a D3200 and used my old 1960's lenses on it. My technique involved the 'sunny 16' rule to get a ballpark exposure. I shall explain:
The ISO speed should be the same as the shutter speed so if you have ISO 200 set then select 1/200 shutter speed, ISO 500 = 1/500, ISO50 =1/50 etc. Then…
… Aperture
Sunny f16
light overcast f11
Overcast or shadow f8
Dull f5.6
raining - go to pub.
Any of the above will give you an almost exact exposure. Tweak it dark or light by adjusting the aperture or shutter speed. Not the ISO or the +/- button.
The sunny 16 rule has been used for generations of film shooters. Before the 60's even most pros didn't have any kind of exposure meter yet took perfectly good photos.
I use sunny 16 all the time when shooting with film, but occasionally a light meter is useful. I got an app for my android phone called 'light meter free'. It works with most modern phones, those that have a light sensor.
Good luck
link to Light meter free https://play.google.com/...o&hl=en_GB
Biggest effect is ISO? Shutter speed, aperture size and ISO all affect exposure equally if you know exactly what you're doing.