Moon Pictures with 35mm Film Camera?

Moon Pictures using Nikon F Standard Prism
500mm f=1:8-22 Lens name unknown made in Korea, Kodak Plus 200 Film
Timed Exposure Clear Skies Arizona
how long should I leave lens open in seconds please

The important thing to remember about photographing the moon is that it's being lit by the sun, just the same as the Earth - the exposures will be very similar to ordinary daytime shots. With a 500mm lens you should be able to get a useful meter reading from the camera - it'll be fractions of a second, not seconds.

Meter the moon and set exposure to that then bracket for safety. Take note that the moon is not stationary so its not a slow shot if that's what you're thinking.

Set the F stop to somewhere between F8 - F11, use a tripod, weight the tripod down to keep it ultra still, use a remote to fire the shutter. See the link below. As for shutter speed, well it varies.

Bring along a digital camera that has manual controls to work out the exposure. The moon brightness varies due to distance from Earth, phase, and atmospheric conditions. I have generally started at ISO 200, f/8, 1/160 seconds. You may want to shoot at f/11 to get better sharpness and shoot at 1/80 seconds.
Bracket your shots so you'll get a usable shot. If your camera has a spot light meter, I would set the exposure at least a stop brighter since the light meter will try to make the mood neutral gray.

In the dark room, you'll need to pump up the contrast to make the moon interesting.

For a full moon, the standard sunny/16 rule applies. With ISO 200 film, you shoot at f/16 and 1/200 second. Depending on the lens, you may wish to open up a stop or two, so at f/8 you would be looking at 2 stops faster shutter speed, 1/500th or so. A half moon would be sunny/f8 to start, and so on. Bracket at least a half stop both directions, full stop if you have to.

If you have a spot meter, meter on the moon only, the same for center weighted. I have an F with prism finder, but can't for the life of me remember how the meter works. Haven't picked it up in years.

The mistake that many people make when attempting to photograph the Moon is that they think they need a super-long exposure. You need to realize that next to the Sun, the Moon the brightest object in the night sky. You also need to consider that you are not photographing things lit by the Moon, but the Moon itself.

As has been said, since the moon is a bright object, your exposure will not be in seconds, but a fraction of a second instead. Use the Sunny 16 Rule where your shutter speed is equal to one over your ISO, and the aperture is at f/16. Since your lens has an aperture range of f/8~f/22, a shutter speed of 1/200th with ISO 200 speed film with an aperture of f/16 should be spot on.

Other options that will produce equivalent exposures to 1/200th @ f/16 are:

1/400th at f/8 (doubling the amount of light entering the camera, but for 1/2 the time) and 1/100 at f/22 (cutting the amount of light reaching the camera in half, but doubling the amount of time) Since lenses are not equally sharp across the range of apertures, I would try all aperture settings to see which image is sharpest. If your lens is like most others, you will see that the best image quality is somewhere around 1 or 2 stops from maximum aperture.

If you have access to a camera that has a spot meter, you can use that camera's spot-metering system to get an exposure just off the Moon's surface. Remember to increase the exposure by about 1 stop since the reflectance value of the Moon's surface is brighter than middle gray, which is what cameras are calibrated to.

Use a tripod since your focal length is so long, otherwise you'll get blurry pictures due to camera shake.

Exposures of the full moon are surprisingly close to "normal daylight". At 100 ISO I had success in a digital SLR (crop frame - thus similar image size to a 500mm on 35mm film) with a 300mm lens at f8 at 1/50th second recently. Allowing for a little overexposure, that same value should be fine for 200 ISO film. You might find that the Moon prints a little warmer than you might expect.

May I suggest shooting the first frame on a "normal" daylight scene, appropriately exposed. That will give the processor a chance to line up the frame on the film. Otherwise the printer will see only a round "blob" on the negative, and not know where to put it.