DLSR cameras under 300€? (Beginner)?

As the title says I'm a beginner. I have a reflex Alpha 200 but the lack of MPs (about 10 MP) it's not helping me with my new interest ( or maybe I'm still doing something wrong).
So here it is the question: which cameras under 300€ are suitable for my needs?
I searched a little and I saw some Nikon D3200… What do you think?

I've never had a camera that weighed over 15 pounds.

If you want suggestions on cameras that will suit your needs, then maybe you should list your needs?

I would not go with any of the Nikon D3xxx series of cameras simply because these specific models do not have an internal focusing motor. This makes buying lenses very confusing as there are about five different types of Nikon lens mounts. Some have internal motors, some do not.

An overall better camera than the D3xxx series is the Canon Rebel series. Canon puts the focusing motor inside their lenses, so you do not need to worry about which mount will work on an aps-c format camera. Canon is much better for video than anything from Nikon. Plus there's the Magic Lantern firmware upgrade that adds a lot of additional features needed for videos.

A used Pentax K-50 would be an excellent choice. Pentax is often ignored by the uneducated first-time buyer who automatically only considered Canon or Nikon. Unfortunately for them, they're missing out on the best entry level bodies on the market. The K-50 is discontinued, but it still outperforms any of the Canon Rebels or Nikon D3xxx series of cameras in terms of build quality and features. The biggest deal with any Pentax DSLR is that they are the only brand that has in-body image stabilization (IBIS). Instead of putting image stabilization in the lens like Canon and Nikon, Pentax has IBIS in all of their DSLRs. This means that every lens you use with a Pentax will be stabilized. There are many benefits to having IBIS. The lenses are sharper due to the fact that in-lens stabilization requires additional lenses. They're cheaper and lighter, too. IBIS stabilizes on all 5 axis, while in-lens solutions on stabilize on 3. If you want to shoot hand held in low light, no DSLR from Canon or Nikon can compete with a Pentax.

If you're the outdoors type, all Pentax DSLRs have excellent weather and dust proofing. Many of their lenses are weather resistant, too.

Pentax entry-level bodies have faster shutter speeds and faster shooting rates, too.

Pentax bodies have pixel shift technology that allows them to get astonishing sharpness, color and contrast that is simply impossible to achieve with any other camera without this technology.

If you want to shoot night shots of the sky or Milky Way, then Pentax is the best due to the pixel shifting capabilities of the sensor. This allows the sensor to move during the exposure to cancel out the motion of the stars caused by the rotation of the Earth. Non-Pentax cameras have to keep their shutter speeds below 30 seconds and their ISOs very high. With a Pentax, you don't need to stay below 30 seconds to avoid stars showing up as smudges. With astro-tracer you can shoot longer at much lower ISOs which means sharper images with better color and contrast and no noise.

I strongly suggest as a first DSLR, go with anything from Pentax. Check out a used K-50 or the new K-70. The K-70 is a bit prices, put it compares very well to Canon or Nikon DSLRs costing hundreds more.

10MP is far more than sufficient. Don't fall for the "more is better" marketing hype when it comes to megapixel counts; I can still produce excellent A4 sized prints using my ancient 2.1MP Nikon compact camera, although with so few megapixels I can't make selective enlargements without a loss of detail.

You have a good camera, and spending money on another one is not going to magically transform your photographic abilities.

Learn to properly use what you have. So that means learning about light and image composition, studying the simple reciprocal relationship between shutter speeds, aperture settings and ISO ratings, and also what effect higher ISO ratings have in terms of "image noise". That will also explain what photographer mean when they discuss "exposure stops". Learn the different light metering methods which are usually multi-pattern metering (a great default), centre-averaged, and spot metering. Study how different lighting determines when to set exposure compensation and what effect that has. Teach yourself about image compression, JPEG settings and RAW.

But most of all, take lots of photos but try not to just snap away mindlessly. Make an effort to set your camera to either manual, aperture priority (my favourite as it directly affects depth of field) or shutter priority (the favourite setting of sports and action photographers as it allows you to freeze motion or to creatively use a little bit of motion blur). Analyse the results as it's far easier to correct mistakes if you know exactly which choices you made; many photographers find that easier to do by carrying a pen and notebook to record what settings were used for each shot; that's something you'll have to do if you every study photography as an academic subject.

As you learn you'll start to find out what the real limitations are of your equipment and how to use those creatively and what kind of images are simply not possible with your present gear. You'll also discover where your particular interests lie and for me it is mostly underwater, low-light, wildlife, and macro-photography; that will absolutely dictate what your equipment upgrade path will be. Typically that will be in the form of new or used lenses which allow you to more easily achieve what you wish, or you might look at the Sony system and realise that other brands like Pentax), Nikon and Canon offer, or you may decide that you want less bulk to carry around and wish to switch to a mirrorless system like Fujifilm (my wife's choice, and I'm considering switching myself), Olympus, or others. I chose a Pentax K5ii because it offered far more for the money than equivalent Canon and Nikon models at the time, had outstanding high ISO image quality and it also had full weather-sealing and also came with a fully weather-sealed lens to match, and had a much bigger optical viewfinder image than competitors. Do your research and you'll quickly drill down to which features are most important to you and who offers them in the best all-round package for your needs.

As for the D3200, it's a very basic entry-level "consumer-grade" model. It may have a few more MP to offer but it won't realistically do much which your present model can do. As an entry-level body you're also far more likely to quickly outgrow it, when investing in something a bit higher in the range, possibly even at the "prosumer" level will last you far longer.

So my advice is to keep your 300€ safely unspent for now, and to research where your nearest local photography clubs are located. Visit a few for a few sessions, the first few visits are normally free for prospective members. Talking to other photographers is a fantastic way to learn and to expand your interest.

10 Mps is plenty for most uses. Not so many years ago, professionals were glad to welcome the arrival of new camera models with (wait for it!) 6 Mps.