Camera accessories for family photos?

Looking to buy a camera so I can take my own family photos and stop paying for others to take them. Thoughts on Nikon D3300 and what accessories are a must for photos of my family and my kids?

The D3300 is a fine camera for photos. You should know, however, it's horrible for video as are all Nikons. So if you plan on doing video with your new camera, definitely go with a Canon or a Sony Alpha series mirrorless.

If you haven't considered mirrorless, you should as they have just as good image quality (Sony makes the sensors in Nikon DSLRs) and control as a full-sized DSLR. The idea here is that because it's smaller and lighter than a full-size DSLR, you'll be more inclined to take it with you where ever you go.

The benefit of a full-sized DSLR is that has a faster focusing system for things moving quickly such as someone running. The Sony A6500 pretty much solves that problem for most non-sports shooters, so taking a photo of a child on a swing with the A6500 isn't a problem.

The things you absolutely need for family photos is a good portrait lens with stabilization. This is one of the reasons why I don't like the Nikon D3300. Nikon only sells it with the 18-55mm kit lens which is okay for general photography. However, the 18-55mm kit lens is far from being a desirable portrait lens. So you'll need to add another lens like a 50mm f/1.8 or f/1.4, Sigma's 50-100 f/1.8 is a fantastic lens as well.

What makes a good portrait lens? It first must be a telephoto lens. Anything longer than 50mm will work, but realize that as the focal length increases the lens will flatten the perspective. This creates a very flattering look that makes people look more attractive. Another feature of a good portrait lens is that will have a large aperture (small number) such f/2.8 or f/1.8. The combination of larger apertures (smaller f/ number) and a longer focal length will allow you to isolate your subject by creating a shallow depth of field thereby blurring out the background making the subject pop. Those who have the 18-55mm kit lens find that the lens with its relatively small aperture of only f/5.6 (which is equivalent to using f/8 on a full-frame camera) doesn't produce a depth of field that is shallow enough. For them, getting a 50mm lens is the most popular option because a 50mm f/1.8 is so cheap at just about $135 and it does the job.

So my frustration with the D3300 is that you have to buy the kit lens that you already know won't meet your needs. You'd be better off with a camera that you can buy body only such as a Pentax KS-2 which is significantly more advanced than any Nikon in the D3xxx or D5xxx series at a much lower price.

The advantage of Pentax DSLRs is that they are incredibly easy to use with most reviewers stating that they never had to read the manual. You'd never, ever, hear that from someone using a Nikon for the first time as Nikon's are nowhere near as well thought out. Of course, once learned, using a Nikon is just as easy as anything else. Another advantage of Pentax over Nikon is that Pentax is much better built than Nikon's D3xxx series of DSLRs. Nikons are constantly issuing out recalls of their cameras. The Nikon D750 has been recalled three times! Pentax bodies are very sturdy, weather proof and dust proof better than most Canon and Nikons costing many times more.

A feature unique to Pentax (and some Sony mirrorless cameras) is in-body image stabilization or IBIS. Unlike Nikon/Canon which use extra lens elements to stabilize the image, Pentax moves the sensor. This is a vastly superior way of getting image stabilization. First, it means that every lens you use will be stabilized. Nikon/Canon don't make stabilized 50mm lenses. But with Pentax your would be. This is incredibly important for portraits because these types of shots are most often taken in beautiful light such that coming from a window or during the gold hour just before/after sunrise or sunset. All of these situations are dimly lit which will require higher ISOs which lower your image quality. But with IBIS you can shoot up to 5 stops longer shutter speeds. Because the sensor is doing the work, you don't need extra lens elements which makes the lens more expensive, heavier and less sharp. The new $2,400 Nikon 24-70 f/2.8 VR has been receiving horrible reviews because it's $600 more than the older version and it's less sharp because of the in-lens stabilization. IBIS also can reduce camera motion on all five axis but in-lens solutions can only do 3 axis.

All of these features in the Pentax will help you with your portraiture photography more than any Nikon.

Additional accessories needed for portraiture are:
1) External flash - No self-respecting portrait photographer would ever use the in camera flash. An external flash with Wi-Fi or with a cord, along with diffusion box should be your very first accessory purchase. You can see all flashes here: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/...4168864836

2) A reflector - This allows you to control the lighting of the subject. Soft light coming from a window is wonderful, but it will create a dark shadow. The reflector will throw light back onto the subject evening out the contrast between one side of someone's face and the other. While very uncommon to most entry-level photographers, an enthusiast or pro will likely have several different reflectors (often called light modifiers) in their bag.

3) Tripod - If you have a stabilization in the body/lens, then the use of a tripod will be diminished, but there will always be a need for a good tripod. Manfrotto is a great brand that makes relatively inexpensive models around $150 to expensive ones around $1,200. These tripods are extremely well made, sturdy and are easily maintained/repaired by the user. A great feature is that you can remove the head so that you can have a ball head for photos, and a fluid head for video work. I recommend you first buy a ball head which is faster to work with when making portraits than say a head with 2-3 handles to control the various axis of movement.

4) Filters - Filters in today's digital world isn't has necessary as it was with film. For one thing, sensors aren't sensitive to UV light like film is, so you do not need to buy a UV filter. If you wanted a soft, diffused look with film, then you'd get a diffusion filter like the Tiffen FX-3 which is an freaking awesome diffusion filter. Today, you can simulate the look with software. Polarizing filters, on the other hand, are still recommended. They remove glare thereby intensifying colors. They're commonly used to darken blue skies in landscapes, but this effect can be simulated in software.

5) Software - You've taken all of these shots in RAW to get the best image quality - now what? You have to have a good photo editing app. By far, Adobe is king. Adobe's lightroom is the best photo-editing software for beginners to professionals alike. Yes, Photoshop is definitely more powerful, but as someone who owns both apps, I can attest that 95% of your editing can be done in Lightroom. It's only when you need to work in layers or combine multiple elements from multiple images (among other tasks) do you Photoshop.

6) Monitors - You should have a decent monitor designed for photo editing. Using an older 17" LCD isn't going to work nearly as well as a newer models such as a 27" BenQ 4K monitor which around $850 from Bestbuy. Going with 4K will allow you to see the details hidden by the low-er resolution of 1080p monitors.

7) Monitor Calibration - You'll need a color calibration tool such as a Color Monky to claibrate the brightness and colors of your monitor.

8) Camera calibration - The X-Rite Color Checker Passport is not as important of an accessory as the others, but if you want perfection in your colors, then it's a must have. It's basically a small plastic box that has color swatches that you photograph. The software will find the colors and then apply adjustments to the file so that the colors are exactly what they should be. It's kind of a way of getting around buying a calibration tool for monitor. The hardest part of using it is actually remembering to use.

While all of these accessories are very useful for portraiture, none come anywhere near the importance of knowing how to compose, how to pose, and knowing about the various qualities of light. Without having a solid foundation of good technical and artistic skills, it won't matter if you buy a D3300 or a D5, your photos won't be any good.

I'm tired of paying a dentist to look after my teeth. What dental tools do I need to do my own dental work?

I'm tired of paying an optometrist to check my eyes. What equipment do I need so I never have to go to an eye specialist again?

I'm tired of paying a mechanic to repair my car. What tools do I need so I can fix my car myself?

Are you getting the point? People have the totally misguided notion now that all they have to do is buy a good camera and they will magically produce quality photos. It does NOT work that way, never has, never will.

Knowing nothing about photography and having nothing but the most rudimentary of equipment means all you will ever have is very mediocre photos AT BEST. Many will be truly AWFUL. It's up to you if that is what you want or not.

Any dSLR will do. That D3300 is good enough but if you can afford higher, you'll have more satisfaction. The cheapest dSLRs tend to be the hardest to use, even if you know what you're doing.

Accessories? You definitely need a tripod and maybe a remote so you won't have to rely on the self-timer all the time.