Budget Lens to Capture Milky Way?

I'm looking for a cheap lens that is capable of capturing the milky way. I will be using a Nikon DX DLSR to take the picture

18-55mm lens any lens with a nice wideangle…

http://en.wikipedia.org/...angle_lens

http://marcussam.tumblr.com/post/9794546047/stary-stary-night-share

EXIF - 18mm, 20secs, f/3.5, ISO 400

http://marcussam.tumblr.com/post/10600223865/night-thunder-share

EXIF - 10mm, 10secs, f/3.5, ISO 400

EDIT -

I agree with the dude below except on 1 point - the exposure of 1minute & above on an entry level DSLR will give super noise as the sensor would get over heated… Very high exposure time will be good only for film cameras & FX format cameras or DX format Nikons D7000 & D90 only…

I've done this many times with a Nikon D70s and the kit lens (18-70mm) … Any reasonably wide angle lens should suffice… Exposures vary due to light, light pollution and field of view, not forgetting camera sensitivity (ISO). Be prepared for long exposures of a minute or so depending on what camera you own - a tripod or some form of support will be a necessity.
The shorter the focal length, the less you'll need to worry about star trailing due to the earth's sidereal rotation.i. E.use a wide angle.

EDIT: I get your point Kaw Kaw but never had a problem with noise up to one minute on the D70s especially if you keep the sensor amplification to a minimum… I.e low ISO.

Most of todays D-SLR cameras can be quite noise free for long exposures (1 minute to 5. Or more depending on the camera) at different ISO's. The big advantage is the fact digital cameras do not have what is called reciprocity failure in long exposures as film did. What this is, is the longer film was exposed to dim light, the less sensitive it became and a 1 minute exposure had to be 2 minutes in order to get the real kind of exposure the film would have given it it didn't have this reciprocity failure.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reciprocity_(photography)
.
One good way around both noise and the needed ability to track the stars for a long exposure is to take many short exposures and then stack them as most real astro-photographers do today. There's NO need to try to take a 30 minute or longer exposure when many 10 second exposures can be taken with a stationary tripod and camera, then the images stacked with simple programs available for astro photography to do this. Stacker is one good free one.http://astronomyonline.org/AstronomySoftware.asp - and - http://www.astrostack.com/ - and - http://www.astronomie.be/registax/ - and many higher end image editing programs also allowing stacking.
.
Another trick is to learn what a dark frame is and how to apply it to night images of the sky.
.
The lenses you use only need to be as good as the image you want. Some wide angle lenses have coma, flare and bad edge distortion when it comes to pin points of lights like stars at night. Even many so called good lenses fail this test on sharpness from edge to edge so it won't matter what you use exactly. However, the cheaper you go the cheaper images you may get.
.
Try the 'kit lens' that came with the camera at the widest angle allowed, a ISO of 200 to 400, a sturdy tripod, cable release (or other means of remote releasing the shutter with out touching or moving the camera) a DARK night away from city lights or the moon and aim the camera at the bright band of the milky way. Do a series of 10 second exposure with out moving the camera. 6 will equal a 1 minute exposure when stacked. Don't wait too long between each exposure. When stacked you may be pleasantly surprised at what you have and now you just refine your technique.
.
Don't expect to get fantastic results on the 1st night or try. Astro-photography is a art of it's self and every image published anywhere has had some magic applied to it in some image editing program in some way some how.
.
Here are a few of mine - http://lensmen2.smugmug.com/Photography/The-Sun-Moon-Stars/5754723_7HcXq6#355728114_KVTvU