Nikon Long Exposure Normalization?

Here is some background info to my problem. I'm a Nikon(D700) shooter. Nikon has this "Long exposure Normalization" which is noise reduction for long exposure shots. The problem is that it takes time after the shot and the camera is locked up until it is done. I think it for 3 second exposure it takes 3 second to "normalize". This is fine for landscapes, but for fireworks, I want to be able to snap the next shot as soon as the exposure is done. Turning this option off will leave noisy image even at ISO 200 & 400.

My question is there a way to "normalize" the RAW file in post process using Nikon provided softwares? I use lightroom 3 noise reduction too, but just want to know if Nikon has it.

"Normalization" is a process done in the camera.

If you shoot RAW and process the RAW files using Adobe Lightroom 3, you can reduce a lot of noise there.

I have not found that there's much noise when shooting at ISO 200 or 400… Even at 3200 if the lighting is good.

Sample of shot taken with a lower quality Nikon than your D700. I do NOT use any high ISO noise reduction when shooting sports.

The RAW file was processed in Lightroom 3.3 with the noise reduction set to Luminance 25, Detail 50, Contrast 0, Color 25 and Detail 50

What little noise that is in the processed image file is not objectionable for use in a publication.

Do you have a sample of what kind of noise you get at 400 ISO?

This 'normalization' as Nikon calls it goes by it's real name and that is - dark frame subtraction. This is a technique where after the long exposure is taken, and BEFORE it is turned into a jpg in the camera, the camera holds the image and takes a 2nd exposure of a dark frame and then subtracts this frame from the time exposure resulting in a rather clean, noise free image.
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http://en.wikipedia.org/...ubtraction.
This dark frame subtraction is not done very well on jpg images and best with camera raw. Hence the time needed to do all this - in camera. It can work on jpg's but sometimes not as well as raw.
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However, there's no way to get around it, except one!
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Dark frame subtraction is the name and process given to digital astro-photography cameras and is needed for the 100's of minutes worth of exposures these cameras can do. Even tho these specialized cameras are chilled, the chip still produces some noise and with out mapping the noise out, one could not tell what is stars or noise most of the time.
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There are after image processing programs than can do dark frame subtraction later, in your computer as long as you have shot the images in raw or another non-compression format. Jpg will not work as well because it rips the integrity right out of a image. But, it can still be done.
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http://www.astropix.com/HTML/J_DIGIT/JPG_DFS.HTM.
http://www.ddisoftware.com/qimage/qimagehlp/dark.htm.
http://photo.net/learn/dark_noise/
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A after image processing tool for dark frame subtraction - http://www.tawbaware.com/is_help/imgstack_help.htm.
By Googling - dark frame subtraction - and - dark frame subtraction programs - you will get a wealth of information on this subject. I wish manufactures of any digital camera that has the ability to expose for 1 second and more would include this subtraction sub-routine in the camera and allow it to be on or off as the user wants or needs.
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My Fuji S-2 Pro, built on a Nikon N-80 body has dark frame subtraction built in on anything over 1 second. It too was a PIA for "rapid fire" time exposures as you say, but boy oh boy were the images clean and crisp. Exposures to 20 minutes were fantastic…
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Hope this has helped.
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Bob - Tucson.