Scope crosshair/target movement?

Just bought a nikon scope and mounted it on my rilfe. Aimed and looked through the scope. I turned the turret knobs but i don't see any movement? Is this normal or do i have a defect scope?

Unless you have it sitting in sand bags and are looking at a target very far away, I doubt you would notice any movement of the cross hairs. Realize, each click is 1/4 inch at 100 yards, or a very very tiny amount of movement. It works out to be each click is 1/4 of 1/60th of a degree, or 1/240th of a degree.

Your crosshairs ARE moving. You just do not have a relative object to compare how much movement. Buy yourself a laser cartridge bore sight the same caliber of your rifle… Turn on the light… Load it in the chamber… You will see a red dot on a surface. Distance is not important at this point but just to give a start try 25 yards. With your SECURED rifle, look through the scope. You should see that red dot. That dot could be any position to the crosshairs. Without touching(moving) the rifle start turning an adjustment knob (top or side… Doesn't matter) Then you will see the movement because you now have a visible controllable reference point. You will soon learn to move the crosshairs into the dot. If you can't and have used up the adjustment… Then you have not mounted the scope correctly. There's a way to correct that… But step at a time for now.(too soon for the actual bullet hole vs crosshair position)

The cross-hairs move @1/4 inch at 100 yards PER CLICK, as Equinox points out;shooting accuracy is measured by Minute of Angle (MOA) which is a Trig constant. That is why scopes are defined as 1/4 or 1/8 (more precise) MOA for adjusting. The adjusting is "comparative" to where the cross-hairs center on, the actual line of sight, and then the bullet trajectory.
When you sight in a scope you start at a short range (25 or 50 yards) to "get on paper" and then you can use the adjusting turrets to change elevation (vertical movement) and windage (horizontal movement) towards that Point of Impact (POI). What the scope starts with is Point of Aim (POA);the sighting in process matches the POA and POI. Bullets have a ballistic arc and a scope is straight line of sight, so the process also has to take gravity, air resistance and slowing velocity. Most rifles loft a bullet with a slight upward angle (physics has a bullet "dropping" as soon as it exits a barrel) and so there are 2 points where the vertical line of the ballistic arc cross the line of sight for the scope/cross-hairs. Again there are ways to utilize that combination to a shooting advantage. If you research Max Point Blank Range (MPBR) for rifle cartridges it will explain it better than I can on here.
So, what you've done is move your POA with no reference to a POI, and while the reticle/cross-hairs moved internal to the scope there's no way to tell unless you were actually looking through the scope at a target while doing it. Now you will need to establish an initial or theoretical POI and start adjusting. So, I would put the turret adjustment back as close to where you started as possible or take rifle in to get bore sighted with a collimator, other option is to raw "bore sight" with bolt removed from rifle and try to align scope and barrel (can look up how on You Tube, etc for this stuff). I don't advise laser bore sighters, they will help you get on paper but you still need to put bullets down range and that laser might save you one or 2 shots is all.
What I do is start at 50 yards and get on paper with a shot, make a couple gross adjustments towards target center, take a 2nd shot at 50 if needed, then move to 100 yards. I use a 200 yard ZERO for my hunting rifles/cartridges because that provides for a better ballistic envelope for me;so I take 3 shots at 100 yards, move that GROUP center towards my ZERO point, take a 2nd grouping, then I should be on. I reload for my rifles and have to work loads up now and then, and there isn't a short cut for sighting in properly that doesn't involve 100 yard shooting. I sight in to be 1.75" to 2" high at 100 yards (depends on cartridges) and that gets me my 200 yard ZERO.
EDIT: There are steps to mounting a scope other than just slapping it on a rifle that could be done;you may research scope bar alignment and lapping the rings. Also it is prudent to use non-permanent Lok-Tite and torque the screws to proper values in INCH/Pounds, not FOOT/Pounds.

You have a defective operator. This is a very serious situation which could have at one time been handled by swallowing or, failing that, a coat hanger.

But now, your only chance is to send the scope back to Nikon with a letter of apology.